i’ve had a few days of transitioning between life at a swanky resort to sleeping outside in a hammock and being devoured by mosquitos. i’m staying with stephanie, another woman who works at sagrado corazon. she is cool. she’s a gringa too but has been here six years and is well-established. her boyfriend is very cool and she seems to have a really fun life. she says hello to everyone on the street–jaime, a middle-aged guy who paints and chooses to be homeless, the leader of the PIP (independent party) and every person walking a dog.the good news: i am no longer homeless. i’m going to live with stephanie starting october 1. she lives in miramar, a nice barrio, but kind of in the ghetto. i think its fine but she keeps insisting its the ghetto and that i havent seen anything yet. whatever. rent is cheap, i get my own room, the place is cmfortable and has a big terraza. she lives with a puertorriquena who works in a school. until october 1, i might be sleeping in an absent flight attendant’s bedroom in viejo san juan with two wonderful lesbians, but we’ll see. nothing is firm. stephanie and i bought some maria earlier and enjoyed it on the roof. while we were up there a truck was driving on the highway that is next to her neighborhood, with big speakers on the roof blasting some reggaeton song. following it was a pack of 20 cyclists or so. image of the day.
this morning we got up early and went to the beach with stephanie’s dog, and normally i hate dogs but this is the sweetest pooch ever. we did a water aerobics class led by a lesbian group. i cant stress enough how much fun this was. at the end of the session there is a few minutes for everyone to give hugs. then the shack selling food on the beach started playing julieta, who would be my lover if it werent for ben. we got food at the shack, comida tipica de puerto rico, bacalao and some other things whose names i would spell wrong but were delicious, along with a few medallas each (the beer of PR!) now at a coffee shop, typing this in word pad cause the wireless here sucks.
the bad news: i am covered in mosquito bites. this morning as i was showing i counted my bites. i counted 17, though its tough to say because they are all in different stages. some are a few days old and no longer an issue, but this morning i woke up with five fat ones. no hot water at stephanie’s. the place is nice though, with a big open air terrace that is part of the place. hard to explain. the apartment has three walls and a roof–the fourth wall is open air. its beautiful. wet when it rains. i’m sleeping in a hammock outside and getting devoured by mosquitos but i’m not too bothered.
tonight we came to viejo san juan, the intensely touristy part of the city. i would love to live here (and it seems i will, for one month) but at the same time, are you fucking kidding me? starbucks and ridiculous shops and expensive restaurants where a gringa as myself is immediately greeted in english. jewelers on the street are nice, as is the free wireless at STARBUCKS, but ill take my ghetto anyday. i cannot stress this enough: if you have been to PR but only viejo san juan, you have a completely erroneous view of this city. the real city is gritty, dangerous poor and ugly. viejo san juan is classy, with polishd wood and gourmet coffee shops and it IS NOT REAL. nobody lives like this. the real gente of san juan live well beyond their means, in nice cars and with laptops, but in small apartments with bugs and dependent on chain retailers like walmart, kmart and walgreens, who has purchased a large numbers of corners in the city and is slowly but surely taking over.
i went to the grocery store today and i was severely disappointed. yes they sell wine but the cheapest bottle was $8 and was fruity garbage. and everything is packaged and american. oreos and kraft singles and i am unimpressed. the organic market will be good but gotta take the bus, which costs money and etc etc.
i am disappointed in some aspects of puerto rican life. there is no resistance to american imperialism, or colonialism, or capitalism or however you’d like to think about it. and i am not implying that even i think of it this way (i think i do) but i need to think more about it and observe and read. but i am reading a book about the history of PR and never ever has it been free. it was free for exactly ten weeks between spanish dependency and the american invasion in 1898. so while the people here are content with their overextended lifestyles, financed by american express, never has this island known real independence. i am learning about the political parties, and the PIP (independent party) who (obviously) advocated complete independence is kind of smirked at. i was talking to a guy at orientation who referred to the PIP as “more of a movement than a party.” i can’t decide how i’ll vote yet because again i want to read more and observe, but one thing i am certain of is that i am disturbed at the complacency. on the other hand–puerto ricans live modern lifestyles with modern conveniences, nice cars and identical cell phone packages (everyone here has the same phone as me) as a direct result of their loose association with the united states. puerto ricans are american citizens and enjoy the same liberties as anyone else might. but a la vez maintain their own identity and very unique traditions. i am torn but like i said read and observe. a quote from the book im reading which struck me:
“I spent all of yesterday with the spyglass in my hands; from Desecheo to Ataud, from Punta Borinquen to Punta Ponce. I saw all of her, I looked and looked at her, I admired her, and blessed her, and grieved for her… I grieed for her, and with her, for her beauty and misfortune. I thought how noble it would have been to see her free by her own efforts, and how sad, and crushing and shameful it was to see her change from one master to another, without ever being her own…” –Eugenio Maria de Hostos, writing in his diary September 12, 1898, while aboard the steamer “Philadelphia” as it left Puerto Rico.
i am excited for this year. i think it will be the most educational year since my semester in spain, when i read all night and learned constantly. penn state wasn’t really much of an education in terms of experience.
i get sad and homesick everyday. i’ve called ben crying more than once. i want to get on a plane and come home more than once a day but i know that if i stick this out and aprovechar i will really benefit from it. and i bet in one year i won’t want to go home. it is a big challenge, more than i expected, and it is definitely not vacation. my job is hellish and i really think i will hate every second of it, but i won’t run away from it. i think back on how i bailed on ym internship in spain (a flamenco recording label/PR agency) and i regre tthat so much. even though my job is not the coolest, i think i will learn something about life and people. my boss, while harsh, tough, not very friendly and kind of abrasive, is also amazing. she organized a series of mini flash mobs (soapboxing, i am told this may be called) on city buses to quickly disseminate info about the israel/lebanon conflict. she has a che sticker on her car and is immensely active in the city. brought me to a restuarant where the activists hang out on my first day. i’ve gone back twice (where i met the PIP leader).
knowing chazulle (boss) and stephanie is going t help plug me into a cool community, i hope. especially living with stephanie. i have drank no less than four beers a day since arriving. chazulle won’t be a friend, but i can use her for ideas–i already passed along an idea to ben for USAS. hope it works out.
tomorrow morning is work. early days and late afternoons. gotta find a yoga studio. i’m going to get my shit together and start going to the indymedia meetings at the UPR if i ever figure out something to write about and get confident enough about my spanish.
if you’re reading this, i miss you. really. leave me comments and call me. i am frustrated by how little people want to keep in touch with me. i am in a new place where i don’t know anyone. i have a lot of down time, no internet and my phone works. so call me. also if you made it to the end of this entry, te amo. don’t be a stranger.