Yesterday I was counted in the Peruvian census. It was a day-long affair here in town, with all stores and services closed down, and everyone at their homes eagerly awaiting the census poller. It was impossible to get anything done today, as all phone/internet places were closed, as were restaurants, shops and the market.
I’m settling in nicely. I’ve been in Peru for three weeks, but it seems much longer. I’ve settled in to my job, the hostel and the town. A new gringo, S, who is an archeologist just moved into the hostel as well, thus forming a definite gringo bloc. We now outnumber the Peruvians living here. We’ve been having a lot of fun–cooking dinner, drinking wine, watching movies and enjoying each others’ company. K and G are sort of a couple, which throws an interesting twist into the group dynamic.
I went to Cuzco twice last week. It’s an unpleasant but necessary errand here and there–there are so, so many things you can’t get here in the valley anywhere. K and I had to do a bunch of shopping for the renovation of the store and a few natural dyes workshops we have coming up. Trips to Cuzco are always at least half personal, since everyone who finds out that you’re going sends you with their shopping list. I picked up a numer of highly coveted items, including some (green!) plantains, yogurt, beans and a laundry hamper (one of the ones from college that fold up–I bought it for 75 cents from a lady on the street). While there, K and I had lunch. It was fine, but then something incredible happened–the waiter put down a bottle of Tobasco sauce. The smallest bottles here run about $12 in the grocery store. I promptly put it in my purse, and my hostel is now one small, half-empty bottle of Tobasco sauce richer. Yeah!
The real gem of the trip to the big city, however, was a place called the Molino. The Molino is the black market. Among millions of other criminally cheap items, they sell DVDs and CDs for $1 each. You’re probably skeptical of the selection, right? Imagining a lot of hair bands and Disney DVDs? Wrong. For a mere $3, I came home with the following DVDs: Sicko, Borat and Magnolia. For another $4, I came home with the following CDs: Mano Negra (Casa Babylon), Regina Spektor (Begin to Hope), Laura Pausini (Yo Canto) and Calle 13 (self-titled). The selection is amazing, and I could have spent much more money. K picked up the complete first season of Lost ($9) and the gringo family has been watching faithfully each night. She also got Frida and Casablanca. Incredible, no?? And if there’s something you’re looking for that isn’t there, they simply hand you a notebook where you write what you want. Chances are the next time you go, it’ll be there. The Molino is my friend. Any potential visitors to Peru to see me have a trip there to look forward to.
We’re in the process of renovating the fair trade store, so its been closed all week. We painted the walls and are going to wax the floor. We’re also going to set up a table explaining the natural dyes process, with samples of the plants we use and naturally dyed yarn for purchase. I hope it is a good idea. While in Cuzco, we spent two entire days looking for a dry-erase board and a bulletin board. K and I lamented the fact that Walmarts and Targets are extremely handy for times like that. We had just wished aloud for a Walmart or other megastore where we’d be able to get the errands we’d spent two days doing done in an hour. Then, walking down a side street, we encountered something incredible–a nice young man who builds nothing more than dry erase and bulletin boards. We spent $10 for both, and immediately felt horrible about having wished for the Walmart. Fuck Walmart! Long live the dry erase and bulletin board man.
Today I got a good amount done, which felt good. I had to go to two local artisans whose products were carry to take photos and do quick interviews to put up some info on them once the store is renovated. I did one with Pancho, the basket weaver, with no problem. Everyone had warned me that the other one, Julio the woodworker, would probably be drunk. I scoffed. I went. He was drunk and made me (I guess there really wasn´t TOO much convincing involved) drink a beer of my own. He wouldn´t let me take a picture because he “didn´t want to look drunk.” So I didn’t.
Sorry for this somewhat utilitarian update. I’ll be better once the store reopens and have more time with a laptop. Also I’m trying to cut internet to twice or three times a week. It’s dial-up and the most maddening hour of my day.
